Kaferberg is to Gruner Veltliner roughly what Heiligenstein is to Riesling: the site everyone in the Kamptal points to. It’s a steep, sunny, windy hillside above Langenlois with rocky amphibolite soils that push vine roots deep and leave a salty streak in the glass. Alwin and Stefanie Jurtschitsch took over the family estate in 2006 and converted everything to organic farming immediately, and here they let the juice sit briefly on the skins, ferment on wild yeast and age on full lees for the better part of a year. The result is Gruner with real shoulders, more about texture and savor than the usual peppery snap. Give it air, or give it a few years.