The Bourdy family has been making wine in the village of Arlay since 1475, which is fifteen generations and makes most ‘historic’ domaines look like startups. What hasn’t changed is the pace: Bourdy ages its wines for years before letting them go, which is why a 2019 Cotes du Jura Blanc is only reaching shelves now. This is Chardonnay, farmed biodynamically (certified since 2006) and raised for years in old barrels, which gives it the nutty, saline accent that Jura whites are famous for. It is dry, light on its feet, and completely unlike the Chardonnay you know. Jura whites are an acquired taste for about ten minutes, and then they’re a permanent one.