Nobody farms vines at 4,000 feet under Mont Blanc unless they’re a little stubborn. Ermes Pavese does, working the native Pri Blanc on some of the highest vineyards in Europe, trained low on traditional pergolas so the vines can soak up what warmth the stones give back at night. The altitude and isolation kept phylloxera out entirely, so these vines still grow on their own roots a living link to Europe before the vine plague. The wine is exactly what that address promises: bracing, lean, and alpine, with a whip of acidity and a chalky finish. Reach for it when everything else in the fridge feels too heavy.