Xarel-lo built Cava’s reputation and then got treated like a workhorse. Enric Soler treats it like a great grape instead, and he’s spent two decades proving he’s right. Improvisacio pulls from three biodynamically farmed parcels, direct-pressed and fermented spontaneously in Austrian Stockinger barrels and concrete eggs, then aged nine months. This is a still white wine, not a sparkler, and it’s the most persuasive argument anyone makes for Xarel-lo as a serious variety.