Enderle & Moll made their name on Pinot Noir, so it’s telling that they treat their Pinot Blanc like a red. The Weissburgunder gets four days on the skins, then ten months resting on its lees with a quarter of those skins still in the barrel. The fruit comes from 60-year-old vines rooted in Muschelkalk, the shell limestone that gives the wine its name and its chalky spine. The result is a white with real grip and a little wildness to it, nothing like the polite aperitif Pinot Blanc you may be expecting.