Ramonet is one of the legendary names of white Burgundy, an estate whose Chassagne-Montrachet bottlings are chased the world over and almost never spotted at a fair price. This is the family’s value play: a Saint-Aubin 1er Cru from En Remilly, a cool, high-altitude slope that sits right up against the Montrachet hill, giving Chardonnay grown there real tension and cut. Same hands, same village pedigree, a fraction of the fuss. It rewards a few years in the cellar, but a good decant makes it sing now. A canny way to drink Ramonet on a weeknight.