If the Jura is on your radar at all, Pauline and Graud Fromont’s Marnes Blanches belongs near the top of the list a couple who founded their domaine in 2006 fresh out of winemaking school, farming organically with minimal intervention in the cellar. Les Molates is their ouill (topped-up, non-oxidative) Chardonnay, drawn from parcels around Gevingey on the region’s namesake white marl and limestone, aged about ten months in barrel. This is the clean, mineral, Burgundian-leaning side of the Jura no nuttiness, just bright fruit and stony precision. 2023 was a ripe, generous vintage. It’s a fantastic introduction to one of the region’s most exciting young estates, and food-friendly to its core.