The everyday joy in the Ppire lineup. La Ppie is sourced primarily from granite soils with a slice of gneiss in the Svre-et-Maine heartland, made by Rmi Branger and Gwnalle Croix in the style established by Marc Ollivier over three decades. Native-yeast fermentation, sur lie aging, no fuss. The 2024 is a fresh-out-of-the-Atlantic kind of Muscadet: zesty, salty, ringing with citrus, the wine to drink by the bottle, not the glass. Cold, with shellfish, on a Tuesday. That’s the assignment.