Marsannay is the only village in the Cote d’Or entitled to make red, white and rose under its own name, and the white is still the sleeper of the three. The Collottes grew grapes here for four generations without bottling any of it, until 1981, when a sixteen-year-old Philippe Collotte decided the terroirs of Marsannay had a real hand to play and put out the domaine’s first wine. He has taken the estate from three hectares to sixteen. His daughter Isabelle joined in 2013 after oenology school in Beaune and took charge of the whites, and the wines are the better for it. This is Chardonnay from several Marsannay parcels, plowed rather than sprayed, fermented with indigenous yeasts and raised mostly in barrel with only a whisper of new oak. Cote d’Or white from the one village nobody has bid up yet.