Head west of Chablis and the famous Kimmeridgian limestone does not stop. It just stops being famous. This is the Auxerrois, where the Bersan family has grown grapes since the 15th century, farming these hills with the same seriousness as their better-known neighbors and a fraction of the attention. The Louis Bersan cuvee, named for the patriarch who left the domaine its vineyards, is pure Chardonnay off that limestone: crisp and mineral-driven like Chablis, but with a touch more generosity, green apple and lemon threaded through a chalky frame. Organic farming, spontaneous fermentation, nothing flashy anywhere. Great Chardonnay does not need a famous name to deliver.