Brz is the hilltop tuffeau-and-clay cru that Clos Rougeard made mythic and that Romain Guiberteau has spent the last two decades resurrecting. Brendan Stater-West, the American who landed in Saumur to work at Guiberteau and stayed to start his own domaine, now farms a parcel of old Chenin there himself, courtesy of his mentor. This is the Brz bottling: 100% Chenin from limestone slopes, organically farmed, fermented with indigenous yeast, aged at length on lees in barrel. Tense, saline, deep, and built to age, it is one of the most exciting small-production Saumur whites being made today. Imported by Becky Wasserman.