Some of the most extreme winegrowing on the planet, in a bottle. Bodega Hermanos Mesa farms a tiny half-hectare clearing at around 1,300 meters up the slopes of Mount Teide, tucked inside the pine forest on volcanic Tenerife. The name honors a ruined stone hut where old goatherds once sheltered. Old Listan Blanco vines here send ungrafted roots into volcanic sand, and a bit more clay in the soil lends richness without dulling the salinity. Aged mostly in large French oak with a portion macerated on skins in steel, then bottled unfined and unfiltered. Wild, saline, and utterly of its place.