Andre Brunel made his name on the reds of Domaine Les Cailloux, one of Chateauneuf-du-Pape’s most respected estates, so his white deserves a look. The Becassonne comes from a single Cotes du Rhone plot of clay over limestone, tucked on an east-facing slope shaded from the brutal afternoon sun by a pine forest, which keeps the wine fresh in a hot region. It is a classic southern-Rhone white blend of Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and Clairette, full of floral lift and exotic fruit without heaviness. Proof that the Rhone’s overlooked whites can be every bit as compelling as its famous reds.