Before it was Victoria’s first vineyard, the Yering estate ran cattle and the Paddock Rise wines are named for those old dairy paddocks, now planted to vines. This is Yering Station’s entry Pinot Noir, and it makes no attempt to be a grand statement: it’s a juicy, bright, unfussy Yarra Valley red built around fresh berry fruit. Strawberry and tart cranberry lead, red cherry follows, and supple tannins hold it together without getting in the way. Serve it with a light chill and it gets even better. The kind of Pinot that disappears from the table faster than you planned.