Australia’s cool-climate Chardonnay revolution happened while a lot of Americans were still avoiding the entire continent, and the Yarra Valley was its epicenter. Yering Station has been there the whole time Victoria’s first vineyard, planted in 1838 and Little Yering is their everyday bottling, the one that shows you what the region does without any ceremony. Fermented mostly in stainless steel with a portion in French oak and some time on the lees, it lands squarely between crisp and creamy. Citrus and white peach up front, a little textural weight through the middle, and enough acidity to keep it honest. A fine reason to stop generalizing about Aussie Chardonnay.