Willi Schaefer is a benchmark Mosel grower, a small family estate farming ungrafted old vines for wines of intense, crystalline minerality. The Graacher Himmelreich, whose name means ‘kingdom of heaven’, is the rounder, more charming counterpart to the firmer Domprobst, its slate soils giving wines of generosity and floral lift. This Kabinett is gloriously light on its feet, just off-dry, balancing ripe orchard fruit against mouthwatering acidity. Schaefer’s wines are perennially in short supply and worth every bit of the hunt. A joy young, and ageless in the cellar.