Nocino is what happens when you pick walnuts too early on purpose. Wild Arc Farm sits on ten acres in Pine Bush, in the Hudson Valley, surrounded by black walnut trees, so Todd Cavallo and Crystal Cornish do the old Italian thing with an American nut: harvest the walnuts green and whole, husk and all, and macerate them until the liquid goes opaque and nearly black. The result is bittersweet and deeply savory, with cocoa, coffee, dried fig and baking spice up top and a green, resinous walnut bitterness running underneath that keeps it from ever turning cloying. Wild Arc names its spirits for family forebears, and Maria carries on the habit. Pour it cold over ice after dinner, or drop an ounce into a Manhattan in place of some of the vermouth, which is the farm’s own move and a very good one. It also does unholy things to vanilla ice cream.