Vienna finally has a gin worth the name. Three friends who call themselves the Kesselbruder, the kettle brothers, started Wien Gin in 2012 as a love letter to their city, and they now make it with Hans Reisetbauer, whose distillery in Axberg is one of the most exacting in Austria. The base is high-grade wheat from a neighboring farm, distilled and refined at Reisetbauer, with a dozen botanicals hand-macerated and pure spring water bringing it to 43%. Juniper is there and holding the line, but the personality is floral: lavender, elderflower and violet root over a broad swath of lemon oil, with sage, star anise and white pepper arriving late. The Klimt label is not a gimmick, either; the whole project is pitched at Jugendstil Vienna, gold leaf and all. Drink it in a Martini where the flowers get room to move, or in a G and T with a wide lemon peel.