This is the format Gautherot’s Chardonnay was built for: a magnum ages more slowly, and this is a Champagne with the structure to reward the wait. He farms biodynamically in Buxieres-sur-Arce, in the far south of Champagne, on Kimmeridgian limestone shared with Chablis, with cows and chickens on the property to keep the farm feeding itself. Blanc d’Argile comes from a parcel where clay lies over that limestone, fermented with native yeasts in barrel and finished bone-dry. The result reads like a taut white Burgundy that happens to be sparkling, and in this size it will keep gaining depth for years. It also solves the problem of a table of six and only one bottle.