Jos Luis Bastas and his partner Daniela Lorenzo work old, ungrafted Pas vines in Chile’s Maule Valley, and “Descabezado” literally “beheaded” refers to the traditional head-pruned bush-vine training that’s kept these heritage vineyards alive for generations. Pas was Chile’s workhorse grape for centuries before falling out of fashion; in the right hands and on the right soils, it makes light, juicy, soulful red. This one drinks like a Chilean cousin to cru Beaujolais crunchy, fresh, and full of character. A wine with a real story in the glass.