Forty-one Highland single malts, some aged up to 20 years, go into Usquaebach Old Rare, a blended Scotch whisky with a malt content of 85 percent the inverse of the grain-heavy formula most blends follow. Usquaebach bottles it at 43 percent in a porcelain flagon, a holdover from the days when Scotch traveled in stoneware, which makes the bottle as recognizable as what is in it. The pour runs rich amber, with cedar, cracked pepper, and crme brle on the nose and coffee bean and white chocolate through the palate. The finish turns to warm spice and malted barley. Keep the flagon for the shelf and the whisky for slow evenings it suits a heavy tumbler and good company.