Three years in seasoned ex-whiskey barrels shape Tequila Ocho Extra Aejo, a single-estate extra aejo tequila from the Camarena family’s fields in the Jalisco Highlands. Ocho prints the field name and harvest year on every front label the argument, vintage by vintage, that agave carries terroir. Because the barrels have already given up most of their wood to earlier fills, oak stays a frame rather than the picture: cooked agave, dried cherry, salted caramel and roasted coffee ride over it, carrying the light residual sweetness that comes from harvesting overripe agave. The distillate is made from agave, water and airborne yeast, nothing else, and bottled at 80 proof. Releases are genuinely small; the current run allocated 720 cases to the US. Pour it neat, after dinner, no ice.