Rejouissances means rejoicing, which tells you exactly what the bottle is for. Sylvie Augereau, founder of the Loire’s riotous La Dive Bouteille festival, farms just 1.5 hectares of old vines by hand and horse, using almost no sulfur and on some cuvees none at all. This one is a 50/50 blend of Pineau d’Aunis and Grolleau, two Loire grapes nobody plants for prestige and everybody drinks for pleasure. It is fresh, peppery and light on its feet: red berries, crushed herbs, tart cherry, and a chalky finish that comes straight up out of the limestone. Give it a slight chill, open it with friends, and don’t save it for an occasion.