Ausstich means, roughly, the one that stands out. Generations ago the Setzers noticed a single cask tasting better than the rest, pulled it aside, and bottled it on its own the name stuck, and it’s now the family’s calling card in the Weinviertel, the original home of peppery Grner Veltliner. They’ve farmed Hohenwarth since 1705, on high limestone-laced soils that were once seabed, dry-farming and planting vines almost three times as densely as their neighbors do. This is Grner in its classic Weinviertel dress: white pepper, citrus, bone-dry and crackling, with a salty finish that pulls you straight back in. Moderate in alcohol, immoderate in drinkability.