Ruby Blanca is named for the winemaker’s two grandmothers, Rubelia and Blanca, and this Barbera was the project’s debut bottling — we were more than a bit impressed. It comes from Clements Hills, the rolling eastern edge of Lodi, and it is made about as simply as wine gets: organically farmed fruit, native yeast, no fining, no filtration. The result is earthy and light enough to chill, which is not what most people expect from California Barbera. The founder came up through an apprenticeship program run with Steve Matthiasson and UC Davis, and the restraint shows. A small, personal project well worth paying attention to.