Pais is Chile’s oldest grape brought over by the conquistadors, planted across the country for centuries, and then largely abandoned as international varieties took over. Roberto Henriquez is one of a small group of young Chilean winemakers who recognized those old, gnarled, dry-farmed Pais vines for what they are: a national treasure. “Pais Verde” is his early-picked, fresh, low-intervention expression of the grape crunchy red fruit, savory edges, and the kind of unfussed-with energy that makes natural wine fans (and skeptics) reach for a second pour. Chill it lightly and pour it freely.