The Cote Blonde is the more lyrical of Cote-Rotie’s two great hills granitic and sand-dappled, named (per legend) for the blonde daughter the Lord of Maugiron bequeathed it to. Rostaing’s bottling has long been one of the appellation’s most graceful, all perfume and silk where La Landonne is iron and grip. Pierre Rostaing, who now runs the estate his father Rene built, farms these old vines with a feather touch and ages the wine in mostly neutral oak so the granite speaks first. In magnum and from a vintage as classic as 2023, this is a wine to bury and forget and then to thank yourself in 2040.