The Rodrguez family bought the abandoned Remelluri estate in 1967 with the goal of producing genre-defining Rioja and they did, releasing the appellation’s very first single-vineyard wine in 1971. Their white is a different kind of statement: a field blend of nine varieties (Viura, Malvasia, Garnacha Blanca, Tempranillo Blanco, Maturana Blanca, Turruntes, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, and Verdejo) farmed organically across high-altitude parcels at 600 to 800 meters in the foothills of the Sierra Cantabria. Fermented in concrete and old wood, aged in barrel and foudre, this drinks more like a serious white from the Rhne or Burgundy than a traditional white Rioja. It’s a thinking person’s white, built for the table and for the cellar.