It takes roughly ten kilos of plums to make one liter of this, which tells you most of what you need to know. Hans Reisetbauer farms in Upper Austria, and his eau de vie is essentially a sustained argument that fruit brandy should taste like fruit. The plums are Hauszwetschke, the old Austrian house plum, from his own organic-certified grove of two thousand trees, picked in September when they are so ripe they have begun to shrivel on the branch and the sugars have concentrated. They are chopped, the pits removed, and the mash ferments cool and slow for two weeks before a double distillation in a Christian Carl copper pot still. Then it rests three years in stainless steel no wood, nothing in the way. What lands in the glass is crystal-clear and smells overwhelmingly of ripe purple plum, with almond and a whisper of baking spice; the palate is dry, precise, and remarkably long. Serve it cool but not frozen, in a small tulip glass, after a serious meal.