This is the wine that ended the argument about whether Palomino is a boring grape. Ramiro Ibanez calls his bodega an albarizatorio – a laboratory for the white chalk soil of Sanlucar – and Miraflores is his benchmark bottling, drawn from old vines, some 80 to 90 years old, spread across several plots of albariza on the Atlantic edge of town. It’s Palomino made as a table wine: no fortification, whole-cluster pressed, fermented spontaneously in old Jerez botas, and aged several months there, part of it under a veil of flor. The result is unlike anything else in Spain – saline, savory, weightless and profoundly stony. If you love sherry, this is where the terroir argument gets made without the brandy.