Quintodecimo is the Irpinia estate of Luigi Moio, the Campania winemaker who happens to also be one of Italy’s most influential professors of oenology at the University of Naples Federico II. Via del Campo is a single-vineyard Falanghina from clay-limestone soils at 360 meters elevation in Mirabella Eclano, and it shows what the grape can do when treated as a serious wine rather than a beach quaffer. Bright and golden, with the salinity and structure to evolve in bottle for years. The thinking person’s Falanghina.