Querciabella has been farming organically since 1988 practically prehistoric by Chianti Classico standards and biodynamically since 2000, with a twist: it’s all plant-based. No manure, no animal products anywhere in the vineyard, which makes it the largest stretch of vegan-certified vines in Italy. The fruit comes from Greve, Radda and high-altitude Lamole, three quite different corners of the zone, blended into a Sangiovese that’s polished without being slick. Now with a few years on it, the 2019 has softened into its stride.