Paolo Coccia has more than seventy harvests behind him, which is not a typo. His family sharecropped this hillside in Lamole from the early 1900s and finally bought it outright in 1962; today he farms it with his daughter Serena and an all-female family crew. Lamole is the high, cool, sandy corner of Chianti Classico, and the wines it makes are the light-footed, floral, red-fruited kind rather than the muscular kind three and a half hectares of vines, worked the way they’ve always been worked. There’s nothing modern or dressed-up here. It’s Sangiovese as a farmhouse red, in the best possible sense, and it drinks like it.