Primitivo has a reputation for being big, sweet and jammy and then there’s Gioia del Colle, the high, rocky, limestone plateau where the grape gets to keep its manners. Mariangela Plantamura’s family has farmed here for over a century, and her vineyards sit next to a nature reserve on chalky soil full of marine fossils. “Parco Largo” is the young-vine cuve: short maceration, six months in steel, no oak to hide behind. Yields are tiny by Puglian standards, which is part of why the fruit stays vivid instead of stewed. Organically farmed, and refreshingly honest about what Primitivo can be when nobody’s trying to make it heavy.