From the Oakville estate founded by Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild, Opus One 2017 is a Napa Valley red blend led by 80 percent Cabernet Sauvignon with Petit Verdot, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, and a touch of Malbec. Nearly all of the fruit was harvested before the October 2017 wildfires reached the valley, and the wine carries no trace of the drama: dark fruit and rose aromatics over an earthy forest-floor base, then cassis, black cherry, and cocoa riding silky, fine-grained tannins into a long, supple finish. The estate bottles one grand vin each year, and 2017 proved it could deliver elegance in a hard vintage. Decant an hour ahead for a serious dinner, or cellar it well into the 2030s.