An amaro built around a single mandarin grove on the slopes of Etna. Gaetano Peci makes Mannamaru in Paterno, just outside Catania, from Avana mandarins, an intensely aromatic local variety, grown in the grove his grandfather and namesake tended for decades. The fruit is harvested and peeled by hand, then infused in neutral spirit to pull the essential oils out of the peel, which is where every bit of the perfume lives. The name is a double pun: manna-rinu is mandarin in Sicilian dialect, and m’annamuru means, roughly, I fall in love. It drinks sweet-tart and unapologetically citrusy, with the bitterness arriving late and clean rather than parking itself on your tongue. Serve it cold straight from the fridge after dinner, or over ice with soda and a slice of orange when the weather turns. Made in very small quantities.