Don’t let the name trip you up: Melon a Queue Rouge is a Jura cousin of Chardonnay whose stems turn red at harvest, but the wine in the glass is a white. This is the work of Caveau de Bacchus, the Aviet family’s traditional estate in Montigny-les-Arsures, and it’s a rare grape grown by only a handful of producers around Arbois. Aged in old oak foudres, it shows off Alpine freshness and a savory edge. Expect white flowers, yellow orchard fruit, a hint of toasted hazelnut and a notably saline finish. A delicious oddity for the curious.