Caveau de Bacchus, the Aviet family estate in Montigny-les-Arsures, is one of the Jura’s great traditionalists, and Vin Jaune is the region’s most singular wine. Made from Savagnin and aged for years under a veil of yeast without topping up the barrel, it develops a deliberately oxidative, savory character utterly unlike anything else. This is the real deal: a 2015 with the long aging Vin Jaune demands. Expect dried walnut, curry spice, green apple and a bracing, salty tang. It’s intense, dry and built to last for decades.