Sancerre gets the postcards, but Touraine grows Sauvignon Blanc just as convincingly and asks a great deal less for it. Les Athletes du Vin is a negociant project from the Loire collective Vini Be Good, which gathers organically farmed fruit from a roster of grower friends and bottles it plainly and honestly, Michel Tolmer’s artwork included. This is the classic Loire take: dry, crisp, mineral, no oak, nothing showing off. A house white in the truest sense of the phrase.