From the Nemet family’s Kareen project in Lodi comes this Viognier, a grape that traces back to the Northern Rhone and is loved for its perfume. The trick with Viognier is keeping it fresh rather than blowsy, and Kareen threads that needle. Expect aromatic white peach, apricot and a floral lift, carried on a dry, rounded palate that stays balanced. It’s a current-release white that drinks generously and aromatically. Pour it a touch chilled and let the perfume do the talking.