Romain Guiberteau, trained at the iconic Clos Rougeard, is arguably the leading Chenin Blanc producer in Saumur. The Clos des Carmes is one of three historic clos on the hill of Brez classified as a great Saumur cru by Curnonsky (Maurice Edmond Sailland). Romain’s grandfather bought this 2.6-hectare south-facing parcel in 1955. Organic, ambient-yeast fermented and aged 18-24 months on the lees in barrel (some new), then rested in steel before a six-month bottle age, this is the serious end of the Guiberteau range. The 2021 is dense, mineral and built to age. Drink it now with great food or cellar it for a decade.