Georges Lignier is a Morey-Saint-Denis domaine – grand crus, serious Pinot Noir, the full Cote de Nuits resume – which makes a white from Marsannay a bit of a curiosity, and a very rewarding one. It comes from a parcel of well under a quarter hectare in the lieu-dit En la Verde, clay over limestone, where cool wind spills down from the woods above the village and stretches the growing season out. That swing between warm days and cold nights is exactly what gives this Chardonnay its mineral spine. It’s fermented and aged in barrel, but the wine is built on tension rather than richness. Benoit Stehly, Georges’s nephew, has run the domaine since 2008, and the house style runs elegant and aromatic rather than broad.