Les Clos is the largest and arguably greatest of Chablis’s seven Grand Crus, and William Fevre is its largest single owner. This is the wine to reach for when you want to understand what Grand Cru Chablis actually means: a deep, tightly coiled Chardonnay built around vivid acidity and pungent, salty minerality rather than fruit alone. The 2023 is dense and slow to unfurl, with grapefruit, nectarine, and a smoky reductive edge giving way to a long, subtly bitter finish. A serious cellar wine; give it years.