Chablis without makeup. Domaine Vocoret et Fils has been farming here since the 1870s, and the family works about forty hectares the old-school way, with a village Chablis that is fermented and raised entirely in stainless steel. No oak, no tricks, nothing to soften the edges, which means what you taste is the Kimmeridgian limestone the region built its reputation on. The 2023 is young, fresh and honest, ready to drink now and comfortable for the next few years. If you want to know what Chablis actually tastes like, start here.