Les Enseigneres is a village-level lieu-dit with grand cru neighbors. It sits at the foot of the slope directly below Bienvenues-Batard-Montrachet, close enough that the geology does not entirely respect the paperwork. Ramonet’s parcel runs to nearly a hectare, part of it planted to vines more than eighty years old, and the wine is raised in barrel with only a light touch of new oak. It routinely outruns its classification, which is why it has a following among people who track Burgundy on the ground rather than on the label. 2022 brought ripeness and, unusually for a warm year, kept its acidity. Give it time.