If you want to know what a domaine actually believes, drink its village wine. The grand crus can hide behind their addresses; a village Chassagne has nowhere to go. Ramonet’s is assembled from parcels across the appellation, native-fermented and raised mostly in older barrels, and it tastes like a scaled-down version of the serious bottles rather than a different wine entirely. 2022 was warm and abundant and then surprised everyone by hanging onto its acidity, which makes this a rare thing: a village white Burgundy that is approachable young without going soft. There are dozens of good producers in Chassagne. Ramonet is the one the others measure themselves against.