Michel Niellon is one of the great names of Chassagne-Montrachet, a tiny domaine of roughly seven hectares whose grand cru Chevalier-Montrachet is the stuff of collector obsession. Naturally, almost nobody thinks to buy the Bourgogne. That is the opening. The same hands, the same cellar, the same instinct for cutting minerality and unfussy balance, applied to a wine you can actually open on a Wednesday. It is now three generations deep here, with Michel’s son-in-law and grandson at the helm, and the 2021 is starting to open up.