Domaine Labet farms ancient vines in the southern Jura, and this is their welcome-mat Chardonnay. Bajocien refers to the limestone bedrock under the Les Varros plateau, a rare Burgundian-style soil in this region that the family compares to the ground around Chambertin. The fruit comes off four old plots planted between 1949 and 1986, then ages nearly two years in barrel in the topped-up (ouille) style, meaning fresh and precise rather than nutty and oxidative. It’s a brilliant introduction to why Jura Chardonnay has become an obsession for so many. Crisp, mineral, and energetic.