This is where it all started. En Quatre Vis is the four-hectare parcel in Cesancey that Pauline and Geraud Fromont took on when they launched Marnes Blanches — old massale-selection vines at 300 meters, planted on the white Lias marl that gives the domaine its name. Fifty-year-old Chardonnay on that soil makes something both broad and nervy: concentrated fruit, chalky grip, a citrus snap that keeps the whole thing moving. It’s made the way everything here is made — hand-picked, whole-bunch pressed, native yeasts, barrels topped up so the wine stays fresh rather than oxidative. If you want to understand what this couple is chasing, start here.