Daniel Chotard was a teacher and a musician, and a distinctly reluctant heir to his family’s vines in Crezancy-en-Sancerre, until the work got hold of him and he passed the obsession on to his son Simon, who runs the place today. Simon farms sustainably and feeds the vines with organic compost, but the decision that really defines this wine is when he picks: consistently later than his neighbors. That later harvest, plus time on the lees, gives a Sancerre with a rounder middle and less of the razoring acidity the appellation trades on. If Sancerre has ever struck you as thin or aggressively green, start here. It has been a house favorite for years, and it stays that way for good reason.